Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Skull cap in Stitch Painter

Gabrielle gave us a great idea for using Garment Designer to create a cap. If you are going to knit the cap you can take it a step further and use Stitch Painter to include some graphics or color.

First Enter your Gauge in Garment Designer after you have drafted the shape of cap you want, and generate Shaping instructions. Write down your total number of Stitches wide by your total number of rows Tall.

Open a new document in Stitch Painter and set up the total number of rows Tall by the total number of Stitches wide you want the document to be. If you want to design the full cap you would multiply your single width by your total number of pieces. I chose to just do half so I multiplied it by 3. I ended up with 54 x 57 grid size.

Go back to Garment Designer and Generate Pixel-per-Stitch graphic, Select the piece and click on Edit Copy, this will copy the image to the clipboard.

Toggle back to your Stitch Painter and click on one upper most left stitch, and click on Edit Paste Special. Then click away to place the image on the grid. That will bring in and set one section of your cap. Select the image you just placed and click on Brush and then Capture. That will capture an image with the exact proportions you need to place down two more images.

After you have placed the three pieces you need you can add graphics or color:

You can then knit your cap following the gird. You can sew and knit just about anything with Garment Designer and Stitch Painter.

~Sonia Barton

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Custom & Standard Bands in Garment Designer

We have a wonderful Guest Post from a great Cochenille Software customer:

No matter what level you are at, there is always something new to learn. I'm not talking about life, so not to worry, no lecture here! I'm talking design. For my latest, a cardi and matching hat for Baby Harlow (a.k.a. Sweet Pea), the new things I learned were on Garment Designer. And how the PrSc button does a screen capture (I know, who knew??) so I can share it visually with all of you. First, so you can set your GD options the same as mine and follow along, here is a screen shot of the choices I made on the top bars:

Custom sizing in place, I turned off the sloper, dimensions, and counts so as to keep the picture uncluttered. In fact, though, I work with the grid and dimensions showing. Here is my baby cardi:

You'll notice that my sleeve is upside down compared to what you get if you're following along with your copy of GD. I planned it that way on purpose. I am a machine knitter, and I like to rehang the garment body on the machine and work from the shoulder down to the wrist. More on that in another blog maybe. First let's work through what I learned on this project, and that is Standard Bands vs. Custom Bands. I wanted one-inch bands of ribbing around the neck, down the front, around the hem (or hip) edge, and around the wrist. Symmetry is on. Standard Bands are applied by Additions > Standard Bands, or Control D. Enter what you want in the fields, then click OK. At first, it seemed that Standard Bands would do the job, and quickly. But look at what happened:

Now, I work with both sides of the front and both sides of the back showing because I like to see a whole picture of what I'm going to knit. So, while the above pictures with standard bands are workable, they just didn't satisfy me. I wanted the front band to flow, and above, it's not flowing. I turned off the standard bands by returning to Additions > Standard Bands, entering 0 (zero) in the fields, and clicking OK. The next step has to be done before you add custom bands. Click on the sides you want banded. Not the pieces. Hold the Shift button, click on the center front line and the v line. Notice near the top, where the v touches the shoulder, a little bit might not be red. Still holding the Shift key, click on that tiny segment also.

The selected sides turn red on both pieces simultaneously because L-R symmetry is on. Now click Additions > Add Band. When the field box comes up, name it something distinctive, like center front band.

If (when) you need to adjust the size of the band in the future, go to Additions > Edit Custom Additions. The back neck band now has to be done under Custom also. If you try to add it under Standard Bands, you'll get an extra band on the front piece that is already finished, even if Symmetry is off. Once that was done, I moved on to the bottom ribbing. Look at these two hem bands. 1) Standard (Additions > Standard Bands) :

2) Custom: Select hem lines the same way you did the front band. Then click Additions > Add Band.

I chose the custom method because, again, I wanted the front band to flow the length of the garment. I use a knit contour (a.k.a. knit radar) to follow my printed pattern, so it really doesn't make a difference which one I print to follow, but I use GD to visualize the end result as well as to print a finished pattern, so to me it is important to the process. The wrist band can be done by the Standard method.

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Skull Cap in Garment Designer

Someone recently posted pictures of a sweater and matching hat. They had designed the sweater using Garment Designer, but I misunderstood and thought they had designed the hat too. While I was corrected about this, it got me thinking about whether it would be possible to make a hat pattern using Garment Designer.

I opted for a simple 6-segment design, but you can change the number of panels easily.

First I took my measurements. Around my head from the nape, over the ears and across my temples I measure 22in. Over the top of my head from the nape to my forehead measures 14in, but from earlobe to earlobe measures 16in. I therefore decided that the segments should measure 3.5in wide (to allow for a little stretch) and 8in long.

I decided to use ëshapesí to develop this design, so the sloper size used is not important. I went into the Display Pieces dialog box and turned off all the standard garment pieces.

For the hat, I selected Shape 1 from the Extras menu, and set the shape to be Triangular, Curved-Medium. I also displayed dimensions.

I selected the bottom line of the triangular shape and dragged it downwards until the height measurement was 8in for the upper section of the side.

I selected the point at the centre of the bottom edge and moved it upwards until the measurement for the height of this segment disappeared completely, then adjusted the curve control points until they completely flattened this bottom line.

I selected the outer point of the bottom line and brought it inwards until the width at the bottom was 3.5in (i.e. 2x1.75), then adjusted the top of this line segment and its control points until the line at the edge looked ërightí. In my case this proved to be a line that is 5.66in high (from the statistics on the bottom left of the window), perpendicular to the bottom edge at the base, and with only a very small curve inwards at the top.
The final step is to reshape the curve at the top to flow more smoothly from the lower section.

If you are sewing, add seam allowances now, print the pattern and cut 6 identical pieces from fleece with the greatest stretch going across the pieces.

For knitting, you will be making either a circular or flat piece that is 6x the width of this pattern piece. The shaping at the edge of the pattern piece will be accomplished by decreasing at the 1/6th marks. You may want to manually stagger the left and right edge decreases so they don't appear on the same row.

You can see from this short tutorial that you could adjust the sides any way you want to get your desired shape of hat.

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Cochenille 2012 Workshops & Dec News

Our monthly email went out today. If you did not receive one, please sign up on the home page of our website www.cochenille.com or if you have already signed up and haven't received one check your spam folders and filters, you can also try adding info@cochenille.com to your address book or approved recipient lists.

Hi Everyone,


We have some final dates for our Design Retreats and Workshops for 2012, and
again a few questions. Thank you all for your responses they are useful in
order to get you what you need.

March 16 - 18, 2012 we will have a Garment Designer workshop in San Marcos,
CA. $200 for tuition. We can provide you with hotel information so that you
can make your reservations. Student limit is 8. Please call Sonia
858-259-1698 for more information or to register.

June 24 - July 2nd 2012 Cochenille Design Retreat in Verona, Italy. $1500
tuition. Some of the classes will be in artist studios, some on location (in
the fashion field so to say). If you would like more information or to
register please call Sonia at 858-259-1698 limited space available.

**Potentially Optional Italy Add-on: If you would be interested in doing an
'Italian Food' retreat just prior to the fashion one. Please reply with your
interest, so that we can plan accordingly.

It will only be 4-5 days.  So, some people could come and do both if they
wanted, or bring their hubby for that, then stay on for fashion.  The
Tentative food dates are June 17-21, or June 18 - 21.  There would be visits
to see Risotto, Olive Oil, Wine, and Cheese manufacturing, as well as
cooking classes, and related things.  Initially we are putting  out a feeler
to see if people are interested in that. Enrollment would be limited to 5

August 2 - 7, 2012 we will be having our annual Cochenille Design Retreat in
New Mexico. We would like to know if there are at least 10 Intermediate
students that would like to participate and make this retreat and
Intermediate workshop. Intermediate would mean that you are ready to push
ahead, you would need to have a good grasp of Garment Designer Basics and be
ready to move on...?? Also we have had feed back in the past that the
students would like to make the 'Day in Santa Fe' going around to the local
artist optional, and have that day be added to the days at the Inn to be
able to work further on Garment Designer, for those who wish to participate
your input would be very welcome??

Where We'll Be:

We don't have any Tradeshows or events in December, but this link will be
updated in early Dec with all the new information for 2012.

Thank you all for your support!

Susan Lazear

Sonia Barton

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